I just got a request, based upon yesterday's Newsletter, to explain in more detail what is involved in Getting Equipped for ARES communications.

The Good News
Many of us already have the foundation of equipment needed for ARES Communications, and only a few additions are needed.

The Bad News
Brand new Hams with only an HT (and others who still only have an HT) will need to need to start getting better equipped to meet today's modern ARES communication requirements.

The BEST News
This is a "2 for 1" deal.
- Once you are properly equipped for ARES communications, you are also ready to go "Portable" with your "Grab 'n Go" gear and "Play Radio" anywhere you like... at the drop of a hat.

Examples:
- Day Trips to the Beach, to a local Park, to a open Field.
- Operate at locations that are Above Sea Level such as Castle Craig (Meriden), top of Mount Graylock (Adams, MA), Mt. Washington, and others.
- Vacation Trips: Imagine all the fun places you can go to have "Portable" Fun!

Let's look at these 5 Key Equipment Items:
Radio, Antennas, Portable Power, Coax, Computer

#1: VHF/UHF Radio
A VHF/UHF Radio with More Power (5 to 50 watts).
There are several great VHF/UHF Mobile Radios with 5w – 50w on the market (New and Used).

You don’t have to spend big bucks to buy a new (to you) radio.
My frugal motto is: “If it is Used and it works, then it will do.”

A great example is my yellow cased VHF/UHF “Go Box”, which started with a USED Pelican Case and 2 USED radios.
One was radio was still in production, and the other was OLD.

Question: How old was it?

Answer: It was so old that everything had to be manually input – no computer programing with a cable is possible. But, it worked and was very affordable ($50 at a Hamfest).
- In fact, I am still using it today as an independent 2nd radio dedicated to Winlink and Classic Packet Radio communications.

When I replaced the primary VHF/UHF radio in my “Go Box”, I chose the Kenwood TM V-71a.
Why? Because it was more “User Friendly” that the Alinco I had, and operating it made sense to the way my little mind works. Of course, Your Mileage May Vary. (LOL!)

Which Radio Should You Get?
That is a personal decision. You can’t go wrong with a radio from a first tier amateur radio manufacturer like Icom, Yaesu and Kenwood. They all put out some great radios.

WARNING:
If you decide to go with a 2nd or 3rd tier manufacturer, you get what you play for – usually a cheap knock-off with inherent limitations that you will regret having later.

#2: Antennas (VHF/UHF)
Mobile and Portable antennas that can take you the distance on VHF/UHF Simplex

Mobile Antennas (For the Car/Truck)
Forget the cute small "Hershey Kiss" style antennas!
Consider any of these:
Jetstream: JTM3B
Comet: CA-2x4SR , or CSB-770A (best gain)
Diamond: NR770HB

Portable Antennas (VHF/UHF) (for temporary set-up in the field with a mast*)

REMEMBER:
VHF/UHF Frequencies are LINE OF SIGHT, and a 20' mast is a good starting point.

Any “Gain” antenna that is around 5’5” (for easy transport and set-up)
Consider any of these:
Jetstream: JTB3B
Comet: GP-3
Diamond: X50A
* Note:
I am using a Telescoping Flag Pole (Harbor Freight Tools) as my mast.
Depending on the situation, I have the option to:
(a) Tie it to a fence post, (b) Mount it on a speaker tripod, or (c) Slide it into a Drive-On Mast Mount.

#3: Coax for VHF/UHF
A Low loss ½” Flexible Coax in the "LMR 400 class" is a MUST HAVE.
This coax type will get the max signal from your VHF/UHF mobile radio to your Portable Antenna.

How Long?
50 feet is good ONLY if you are operating very close to, or right under the mast.
But, you will want to also have at least another 50’ roll (with barrel connector), or with a 100’ roll and barrel connector(Better option) to get from the antenna to an operating position inside a building.

Length Recap:  You want:
a Barrel Conector PLUS
Either: a 50' roll AND a 50' roll (2  cables = 100')
Or (BEST): a 50' roll AND a 100' roll (2 cables = 150').

Note:
I get the ½” Bury-Flex coax (LMR 400 equivalent) from Quicksilver Radio Products in Meriden. 
www.QSRadio.com

Reality Check:
STAY AWAY FROM RG-8x and RG 58U for VHF/UHF.
They have too much loss, making them unsuitable at 144 and 440 MHz.

For a Mind Blowing Experience,
See the Coax Comparison Chart at: 
qsradio.com/coax-and-connector-info.html

#4: Portable Power
What are you going to do when the A.C. dies and your A.C./D.C. power supply becomes useless?
Got to have 12v. D.C. power for your equipment

Level 1:
Spare Batteries for your HT and a Battery and Battery Box* for the mobile radio.
Go with LiFeSO4 (Lithium Iron Sulfate) batteries for best life, best power, and amazing weight savings.
I get my Bioenno batteries from Hamsource in Shelton. www.hamsource.com

Level 2:
Solar Panels (with Solar Charge Controller) to charge your batteries

Level 3:
Generator (gasoline fueled) - E.G. Honda EU-2000i

* Battery Box
You can make your own, or buy from vendors such as:
Quicksilver Radio
Powerwerks
Gigaparts

#5: Computer
You will need a Laptop/Notebook Computer (and connecting cable) to be able to provide ARES Data Communications using Winlink.

Which OS?
While Winlink supports Windows, Mac and Linux, I recommend that folks use a Windows OS machine .
This is because most hams know Windows, and can help you with any problems that arise.

BOTTOM LINE
For new the Ham, I KNOW all this is a lot to digest and do.
Just take it Step By Step, and you will be fine.

Contact me or your local ARES Emergency Coordinator with your questions.
We are here to help.